Exploring Lake Titicaca and the Floating Islands Controversy

Apparently, the Lake Titicaca Floating Islands are controversial lately.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

First, some background info:

The Floating Islands are meticulously constructed man-made creations of totoro reed inhabited by the indigenous Uros people.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy
the base reed material

The Uros people had lived around Lake Titicaca for hundreds of years (some say thousands) until the Inca moved in. Some stories claim that the Uros people were pushed into the lake by the Inca (literally), where they used their ingenuity to create floating islands to live on. Others say that as the Incas encroached on Uros land, the people began creating the islands which could be easily moved for defensive purposes.

These days, there are over 50 islands and more than 1000 islanders. Now, Uros people survive by hunting and fishing as they did in the old times, in addition to making money through arranging tours to the islands and selling handicrafts to tourists.

Now, the controversy:

There are rumors that the modern day (supposed) inhabitants of the floating islands do not actually live there, but rather stay on the mainland and simply appear for tourist performances.

It’s quite the debate among tourists in southern Peru (and online), with detractors saying that visiting the islands as a tourist just perpetuates the charade and is not an actual celebration of culture. People get pretty vehement about it.

I don’t like to take anyone’s word on anything and my husband likes to tell me that I’m curious as a cat (not in a complimentary way)… so of course, I had to go see for myself on my Peru Hop stopover in Puno with a Full Day Lake Titicaca Tour.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

On the way to the island, our guide explained that each of the many islands receives only 1-2 tourist boats a week, and for just a few hours each time, to minimize disturbances to the local way of life and to share the tourism dollars fairly among the community.

He disagreed with the assertion that the islanders don’t actually live on the floating reed islands, especially not spend the night, and was pretty firm in his stance.

If the people on the floating islands really do NOT live there, they’re certainly putting on a pretty elaborate hoax.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

I saw kids getting ready for school, clothes hanging out on the line, and received a thorough explanation of how to use the floating toilet in the middle of the night if the need arises. The islanders also had antennae and solar panels set up to power their TVs. Would that really be necessary if they only arrived to the island a couple times a week to put on a spectacle for tourists?

I’ll admit it is quite a spectacle, and feels like a show, with a big boat full of tourists sitting semi-circle around the island leader. Tourists get a well-rehearsed explanation of how the islands are made (complete with props and signs) and what local life is like.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

The leader of the island takes everyone on a little reed boat ride around the island (for an additional charge, of course). Also constructed out of totoro reed (like the island itself) and a bit of recycled wood, the boat is the manpowered “Mercedes Benz” of the Pros Islands.

It’s also the perfectly slow paced way to get a feel for life on the water.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy
Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands ControversyLake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy
Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

Halfway through, a little boat with two little girls pulls up, and the girls sing a song in each of the languages of the different people on board, and then go up to each person and ask for money.

After returning to the island, the tourists are given free time to buy souvenirs from the women of the island, and to wander around wherever they want. Some people went so far as to enter inside the little homes, sit on the beds, and poke at the belongings.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

To me, it felt a bit zoo-like, especially having tourists allowed (and encouraged) to invade their privacy, especially of their houses. Also the big emphasis on buying stuff and tipping was a bit uncomfortable. It was much less an authentic local experience between people, and more like a performance or exhibition.

Anyway, the verdict is out and I don’t know whether the people stay on the island at night or not, and I’m not sure if I care. Go see for yourself.

In my opinion, regardless of how much time the people spend on the floating islands these days, it’s still interesting to see how they were constructed and how they lived, even if it was in the past. If these families choose to live on the mainland (for their convenience, safety, education, or any other reason), I can’t fault them for that.

Lake Titicaca Floating Islands: the Uros Islands Controversy

(I have heard that for a more authentic experience, it’s recommended to do an overnight homestay as there are fewer tourists and a more genuine interaction with the local people)

Necessary Details for the Lake Titicaca Floating Islands & Taquile Trip

I went on the Full Day “Titicaca Uros Floating Islands & Taquile” trip with Peru Hop and Find Local Trips. The cost was just $25, including lunch. I was picked up from my hotel around 7am, and returned around 5pm (roundtrip transfer to and from the dock included).

If you have less time, there’s a 2 hour trip available, and if you have more time (and want more of an authentic local experience) there’s a 2 day trip available. If I could do it again, I would definitely go for the 2 day trip.

Pin the Lake Titicaca Floating Islands Trip for Later

Lake Titicaca's Uros Floating Islands    Lake Titicaca's Uros Floating Islands

While I was a complimentary guest of Peru Hop, all my opinions and advice remain my own.

Would you visit the Lake Titicaca Floating Islands? Why or why not?


A short vacation in Thailand turned into a life abroad with a canceled ticket home. Nearly a decade later and after living in Bangkok, Rio de Janeiro, Puebla, and Puerto Vallarta, Steph is on to her next adventure and living back in beautiful, cosmopolitan Mexico City. She is living, traveling, and working (both as an expat therapist and an international health insurance representative) around the world to find the beautiful, inspirational, and interesting while sharing it with you!

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1 Comment

  1. mickmmm
    September 20, 2018 / 9:08 pm

    Hi Steph. Very simple and interesting account of your visit. For me it was also an interesting visit and the reason and concept of these floating island is a great learning. Our visit did not include any comment about the controversy you mention. I do like your frankness regarding your feelings about it. I guess I am a little the same “who should really care” unless you are researching for important work. Of course it’s commercial and why not, good like to them if these Uros can make an Euro or two out of it! (could not help myself saying it this way!) But for me one visit is enough.

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